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Category : BasqueStage
Category : BasqueStage
It’s March. That means it’s calçot season.
What’s a calçot, you ask? It’s perhaps Spain’s most famous onion, and it’s so revered in northeast Spain (Cataluña) that it has a whole season of parties that revolve around it. So of course we had to carry our Sammic scholars to experience it firsthand. We visited a family farm, the Brothers Blanch, and one of its owners explained us the abc’s of calçots.
Specifically, a calçot is an onion that has been taken out of the land, allowed to sprout (like they do when you leave them too long in the pantry), then returned to the ground. Farmers, like the one above, carefully pile dirt for weeks until the sprouts become full-size onions that look more like leeks, with long, white stems.
Then they are harvested, and it’s the moment of truth. The calcots are charred over a huge, open flame, then wrapped quickly in newspaper. This makes for easy transport and also serves to steam them to perfect tenderness. Why?
Because they will then be served by the plateful, adorned with large bowls of sauce. Romesco sauce just happens to be the eighth wonder of the world: a rich, bright sauce of nuts, red peppers, the dried ñora chile, tomato, olive oil, a splash of vinegar and some kind of stale bread product. The charred calcots are then slipped free of their skins and…devoured.
This peeling is a really, really messy business. Imagine flakes of charred vegetable flying everywhere…on clothes, on bibs, on the table. At least there’s plenty of wine in the porrón to go around.
And now for the money shot:
You could say that Elisha more or less got the hang of it.
Category : BasqueStage
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Category : BasqueStage
Disculpa, pero esta entrada está disponible sólo en English.
Disculpa, pero esta entrada está disponible sólo en English.
Category : BasqueStage
Below, read an interview with Cameron Rolka, II Sammic Scholar for BasqueStage.
July in San Sebastián or July in Portland ? Why?
Actually, before I came out here I was a bit sad to leave Portland during the summer. In Portland everyone waits through the rainy season for the absolutely gorgeous summer weather, outdoor activities, and events that take place. Although as great as summers are in Portland, I’d have to say in San Sebastián because, well…. It’s Spain! It’s a new place to experience summer, it has beaches, everyone is out and about, and the produce season is in full swing.
American girls or Basque girls?
Basque girls! When in Rom- I mean San Sebastián, right?
What did you expect coming here?
I expected everything to be excessively expensive…
How has that changed?
I realized that while certain things can be pricier than what I’m used to, most everything can be found for a reasonable price.
What did you know about Basque cuisine before you arrived, if anything?
Before coming out here I read Life and Food in the Basque Country by María José Sevilla, and part of Mark Kurlansky’s The Basque History of the World. I found Basque cuisine very interesting with its heavy focus on seafood, foraging, and sheeps’ cheese.
The most interesting spanish word you’ve learned?
That would be “mola,” because I’ve heard debates on whether it’s passe or un-hip to use. I still don’t know whether I should use it, and if I do will I’ll be considered uncool.
Is there anything you miss from the United States already?
I miss, tacos, sushi, and pizza. But I’m fine giving that up for the wide variety of foods in Basque cuisine and of course Pintxos! I’ll definitely miss Basque food when I go back to the States.
What was your first impression of Martin Berasategui?
He seems pretty laid back and likes to joke around with anyone next to him. When he is in a good mood he emits a surprising amount of noises of joy while walking through the kitchen fist pumping the air.
What’s it like to work in the kitchen there?
It’s very different experience from cooking in Portland kitchens. From my largest kitchen with a max of ten people to Martín Berasategui’s with over one hundred cooks. People are responsible for few tasks which enables the kitchen to put more intricacy into the plates.
What are the three most important traits of a cook in an American kitchen?
- Willingness to work hard and quickly for long hours.
- A desire to learn.
- Attention to detail.
In a Basque kitchen?
Pretty much the same…
What inspired you to cook?
Growing up in Ann Arbor, Michigan with my best friend who loved eating and cooking. Doing something I liked with someone else just as passionate about food helped drive me.
What’s the best thing you’ve eaten so far?
This question made just made me think for 15 minutes while reflecting on what I’ve eaten… It’s a hard question as I’ve eaten so many good foods. I would have to say jamón Ibérico, and all the foie gras I’ve eaten.
Do you know any words in Euskera?
Agur, people say it all the time when I leave a restaurant or store.
What’s the weirdest edible thing you’ve seen so far, be it in a grocery store or restaurant?
The combination of foie, mushroom, green tea, coffee, and yucca in one dish at Arzak.
Have you had any ‘I can’t believe I’m in Spain/Basque Country moments’ yet?
Pretty much every day I have off from work… Usually when I get off the Eusko Tren going into Donastia, or coming back. It’s then that I realize that I live here. I get the feeling when I go out on excursions too, but it’s actually strongest when I’m doing regular things.
Read more about Cameron’s adventures with BasqueStage on his blog and follow him on Twitter.
Category : BasqueStage
Below, read an interview with Marco Bahena, II Sammic Scholar for BasqueStage.
July in San Sebastián or July in Chicago ?
July in Chicago. Not only because I miss home, but July is about the one month that we get nice weather in Chicago. On top of that it is prime time for different food shows, music festivals, amazing produce and all things fun and Chicago style!
American girls or Basque girls?
The girls back home will kill me, but I have to give it to the beautiful basque’s! I may not be able to understand half of what they are saying to me, but the accents are damn sexy, and how lucky am I to be in a place where im supposed to greet every girl I meet with two kisses!
Tell us a little bit about what you think of País Vasco.
It has been a really exciting and inspiring change of pace coming from a big city like Chicago. I went from being surrounded by skyscrapers to being minutes away from beaches and mountains, its absolutely unreal. Im surrounded by amazing restaurants that have given me a totally different view towards food. The basque are very proud of what they produce, and because of that have some of the best quality products ive ever tasted.
What did you expect coming here?
I suppose I had the expectations that most Americans have from the stories that come back. The best tasting jamon at every corner, a culture devoted to food, tapas everywhere and hot sunny days that never end.
Has that changed?
Wasn’t too far off with most of it except that it always rains here! I also probably should have guessed that there is some amazing surf out here.
What did you know about Basque cuisine before you arrived, if anything?
To be honest I really didn’t know too much. With where its located I expected there to be an influence coming from Biscay bay with some great seafood. As well as there being some sort of french/Spanish fusion influence with the food.
The most interesting word you’ve learned, and why?
I have kind of fallen in love with any word that is spelled using “TX”. Its pretty unique and fun to say words like txakoli.
Is there anything you miss from the united states already?
Friends, family, my puppy, tacos, local chicago beers, good pizza, my bike, and Chicago style hot dogs Just to name a few…
What was your first impression of Martin?
The first day I walked into the restaurant he greeted me with a very warm smiling welcome to the restaurant. He seems to always be smiling and bringing a lot of energy into the kitchen. With as busy as he is with different projects it is nice to see that he always makes time to talk and connect with his stages.
What’s it like to work in the kitchen there?
Its very different than what I have experienced in the u.s. Very long days with an incredibly talented team of chefs. They are strict but you will really learn a lot when you go there. They are all dedicated to Spanish food and maintaining the integrity and tradition to the restaurant and their food.
What do you hope to learn in Kitchen Berasategui?
Everything…but ill settle for really mastering how to work with and cook the great seafood that this region is famous for.
What are the three most important traits of a cook in an American kitchen?
- Sanitation
- Organization
- Persistance
In a kitchen here?
- Knowing Spanish
Embracing the Spanish style of food and cooking.
Passion for food
What inspired you to cook?
Growing up, I was always inspired by my mother’s home-cooked meals. No matter what she made, it was always the best thing I ever ate. Working with her and grandma is what I think really started my interest in food. I distinctly remember having cooking get-togethers with the family during Christmas which was an event I always and still look forward to.
What’s the best thing you’ve eaten so far?
The “Mantequilla de cabra” course at etxebarri, hands down. It is so unbelievably simple and is a great example of letting your product speak for itself. Simple presentation, but flavors that I will never forget.
Do you know any words in Euskera? How’d you learn it?
I’ve learned a little bit, but the first word I learned was “Agur!” from a teacher back home who is from the basque country.
What’s the weirdest edible thing you’ve seen so far, be it in a grocery store or restaurant?
Defidently going to have to be cocochas. It is such an unused cut of the fish in the US, though its so delicious!
Have you had any ‘I can’t believe I’m in Spain/Basque Country moments’ yet?
On our days off from the restaurant we go on different field trips throughout Spain with Marti and Andoni from the basque stage group. Im pretty sure ive had those moments every single day weve been out with them. Be it from spending a weekend in France, checking out the great surf at the different beaches, cooking for friends, and all the great Spanish food!
Read more about Marco’s adventures with BasqueStage on his blog and follow him on Twitter.